Bespoke & ThreadTailoring Studio

Reference

All tools

Twenty-eight tailoring and sewing tools, each with a specification table, a technical parameter table, compatible fabrics and stitches, and a safety note. Filter by category or by the stage of work the tool belongs to.

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Sewing Machine technical line drawing

Sewing Machine

A lockstitch machine, mechanical or computerised, that forms the stitch every other technique on this site is built on.

Sewing Machines & Needles
Serger / Overlock technical line drawing

Serger / Overlock

A three- or four-thread overlock machine that trims, stitches and neatens a seam edge in one pass.

Sewing Machines & Needles
Needle Set technical line drawing

Needle Set

Universal, microtex, jeans and ballpoint needles, and the size-to-fabric table that decides which one belongs in the machine.

Sewing Machines & Needles
Bobbin technical line drawing

Bobbin

The lower thread supply. The wrong bobbin class, or one wound unevenly, breaks the stitch before any setting will fix it.

Sewing Machines & Needles
Walking Foot technical line drawing

Walking Foot

A presser foot with its own feed dogs above the fabric, so the layers move together instead of slipping.

Sewing Machines & Needles
Zipper Foot technical line drawing

Zipper Foot

A narrow, adjustable foot that lets the needle sit beside the zip teeth instead of on top of them.

Sewing Machines & Needles
Fabric Shears technical line drawing

Fabric Shears

Bent-handle shears that keep the fabric flat on the table while the blade cuts. The tool a tailor buys once and keeps for thirty years.

Cutting & Measuring
Rotary Cutter technical line drawing

Rotary Cutter

A rolling circular blade that cuts multiple layers at once and needs a mat underneath. Fast, accurate, and unforgiving of fingers.

Cutting & Measuring
Cutting Mat technical line drawing

Cutting Mat

A self-healing mat that protects the table and the blade, printed with a grid for squaring up.

Cutting & Measuring
Quilting Ruler technical line drawing

Quilting Ruler

A thick acrylic ruler with a printed grid and angle lines, used as the guide for a rotary cutter.

Cutting & Measuring
Seam Ripper technical line drawing

Seam Ripper

A small hooked blade for unpicking stitches. You will own several, because they evaporate.

Cutting & Measuring
Tailor's Chalk technical line drawing

Tailor's Chalk

Clay or wax chalk for marking cloth. It lifts off the surface instead of staining the fibre.

Cutting & Measuring
Steam Iron technical line drawing

Steam Iron

The single most important tool in the room after the machine. Heat, moisture and pressure set the shape of a garment.

Pressing & Finishing
Tailor's Ham technical line drawing

Tailor's Ham

A firmly stuffed curved cushion for pressing seams that are not flat, like darts, sleeve heads and hips.

Pressing & Finishing
Clapper technical line drawing

Clapper

A block of hardwood you press down on a steamed seam to trap the heat and flatten it. The most underrated tool on the bench.

Pressing & Finishing
Pressing Cloth technical line drawing

Pressing Cloth

A thin cotton or silk cloth laid between the iron and the garment to protect the fibre from scorching and shine.

Pressing & Finishing
Seam Roll technical line drawing

Seam Roll

A narrow cylindrical cushion for pressing a seam open without imprinting its allowances on the right side.

Pressing & Finishing
Cotton Fabric technical line drawing

Cotton Fabric

The beginner's fabric: stable, easy to cut, forgiving to sew and simple to press.

Fabrics & Notions
Linen Fabric technical line drawing

Linen Fabric

A flax fibre with a distinctive slub, superb drape and breathability, and a tendency to crease the moment you move.

Fabrics & Notions
Wool Fabric technical line drawing

Wool Fabric

A protein fibre that tailors like nothing else: it moulds to shape with steam and holds it. Also it shrinks if you treat it badly.

Fabrics & Notions
Interfacing technical line drawing

Interfacing

A hidden layer that gives a collar its roll, a buttonhole its strength and a waistband its body. Fusible or sew-in.

Fabrics & Notions
Buttons technical line drawing

Buttons

Two-hole and four-hole buttons, and the shank that lets a button sit over a buttoned band without pulling.

Fabrics & Notions
Zippers technical line drawing

Zippers

Nylon, metal and concealed zips, and the difference between a zip that disappears into a seam and one that is meant to be seen.

Fabrics & Notions
Dress Form technical line drawing

Dress Form

An adjustable torso for fitting and pinning without a body inside it. The difference between guessing at a fit and seeing it.

Tailoring & Fitting
Measuring Tape technical line drawing

Measuring Tape

A flexible dual-scale tape. The tool that starts every project and checks every fit.

Tailoring & Fitting
French Curve technical line drawing

French Curve

A flat drafting template with the curves a body actually has, for drawing armholes, necklines and hips.

Tailoring & Fitting
Tracing Wheel technical line drawing

Tracing Wheel

A spiked wheel that transfers pattern markings through to the fabric below by pressing, not by drawing.

Tailoring & Fitting
Pattern Weights technical line drawing

Pattern Weights

Flat metal weights that hold a pattern down without pinning, so the paper and the fabric both stay put.

Tailoring & Fitting