Bespoke & ThreadTailoring Studio

Sewing Machines & Needles

Zipper Foot

The zipper foot is the first specialist foot most sewists buy. Its sole is narrow and split, and on most machines it can be mounted on the left or the right so the needle runs down one side of the foot. That is what lets you stitch right up against the teeth of a zip without the foot riding over them.

Sew
Zipper Foot technical line drawing
Specification
SpecificationValue
TypeAdjustable, left or right mount
SoleNarrow, split toe
CompatibilitySnap-on or screw-on by brand
UseZips, piping, welt pockets, piping trim
VariantsConcealed zip foot, invisible zip foot
MaterialMetal or plastic

Technical parameters

Technical parameters
ParameterDetail
Mount sideSwitches the needle position relative to the foot
Needle positionMove the needle left or right, not the foot
ClearanceSlide the foot to the needle, not the other way
Edge stitchingUse the split to ride the teeth
PressureReduce for fine fabrics
Pairs withA zip, piping cord, or a welt

Safety

The foot sits close to the needle and the zip teeth can deflect it. Check the needle enters the gap cleanly by turning the handwheel before you sew, and keep your fingers behind the foot, not beside the needle.

What it is for

A narrow, adjustable foot that lets the needle sit beside the zip teeth instead of on top of them.

Compatible fabrics

Cotton Linen Wool Denim Silk

Compatible stitches

Straight Edge stitch

Working notes

  • Mount the foot on the side that keeps the bulk of the fabric to your left.
  • Move the needle position rather than the fabric when you want a closer line.
  • Baste the zip first; the foot is for the final stitching line.
  • Reduce the presser-foot pressure on fine fabric so it does not stretch.