Fabrics & Notions
Zippers
A zip is two rows of teeth held together by a slider, sewn into a garment along two tapes. What varies is the teeth, the tape and the way it is inserted: a metal zip is a feature, a nylon zip is a workhorse, and a concealed zip is designed to vanish into a seam so all you see is the pull. The size number, No. 3 or No. 5, is the width of the teeth when closed.
| Specification | Value |
|---|---|
| Types | Nylon coil, metal, concealed, invisible |
| Sizes | No. 3, No. 4.5, No. 5, No. 10 |
| Length | 10 - 70 cm, cuttable on some |
| Tape | Polyester, colour-matched |
| Slider | Auto-lock or non-lock |
| Use | Dresses, trousers, jackets, bags |
Technical parameters
| Parameter | Detail |
|---|---|
| Size | Tooth width in mm when closed |
| Insertion | Centred, lapped, or concealed |
| Foot | Zipper foot, or invisible zip foot |
| Basting | Tape or glue-baste before stitching |
| Length | Measure the opening, not the garment |
| Shortening | Metal zips need a new stop |
Safety
Zip teeth are metal or nylon and can deflect a needle if the foot rides over them. Keep fingers behind the zipper foot, check the needle clears the teeth by turning the handwheel, and be careful with sharp slider edges on metal zips.
What it is for
Nylon, metal and concealed zips, and the difference between a zip that disappears into a seam and one that is meant to be seen.
Compatible fabrics
Compatible stitches
Working notes
- Measure the opening, not the garment, when you choose a length.
- Baste or glue-baste the zip in place before the final stitching line.
- Use a concealed zip foot for an invisible zip; a standard foot will not get close enough.
- Shorten a nylon zip from the top and sew a new stop.
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