Fabrics & Notions
Cotton Fabric
Cotton is a plant fibre spun into a stable woven cloth. It has almost no stretch, which makes it easy to cut and sew accurately, it takes a crease and holds it, and it presses beautifully. Those same qualities make it the fabric every sewing course starts with and the one quilting is built on. Its weakness is shrinkage and a tendency to fray, both of which are managed rather than avoided.
| Specification | Value |
|---|---|
| Fibre | 100 per cent cotton, or a blend |
| Weave | Plain, twill, poplin, quilting |
| Weight | 100 - 250 g/m2 |
| Width | 110 - 150 cm |
| Shrinkage | 3 - 5 per cent, pre-wash |
| Fraying | Moderate; finish the seams |
Technical parameters
| Parameter | Detail |
|---|---|
| Grain | Selvedge runs along the warp |
| Pre-wash | Wash and dry as you will the garment |
| Needle | Universal 80/12 |
| Stitch | 2.5 mm straight |
| Thread | 40-weight polyester or cotton |
| Pressing | Medium heat with steam |
Safety
Cotton is safe to sew and press, but it is combustible. Keep it away from an iron left flat and hot, and be aware that a hot iron can scorch it before it visibly burns. Pre-wash to remove the sizing, which is what makes a new cotton stiff.
What it is for
The beginner's fabric: stable, easy to cut, forgiving to sew and simple to press.
Compatible fabrics
Compatible stitches
Working notes
- Pre-wash and dry before you cut, or the garment will shrink after it is made.
- Finish the seam allowances with a zigzag or an overlock; cotton frays.
- Use a 2.5 mm straight stitch and a universal 80/12 needle.
- Quilting cotton is the most stable and the most forgiving choice for a first garment.
Related tools
Linen Fabric
A flax fibre with a distinctive slub, superb drape and breathability, and a tendency to crease the moment you move.
Wool Fabric
A protein fibre that tailors like nothing else: it moulds to shape with steam and holds it. Also it shrinks if you treat it badly.
Interfacing
A hidden layer that gives a collar its roll, a buttonhole its strength and a waistband its body. Fusible or sew-in.