Fabrics & Notions
Interfacing
Interfacing is a supporting fabric fused or sewn to the inside of a garment piece to give it body, stability or shape. A collar needs it to hold a roll, a button band needs it to survive buttonholes, and a bag needs it to stand up. It is invisible in the finished garment and its weight decides whether the garment looks crisp or soft, so choosing the right one matters more than most people expect.
| Specification | Value |
|---|---|
| Type | Fusible (iron-on) or sew-in |
| Weave | Woven, knit or non-woven |
| Weight | Light, medium, heavy |
| Width | 90 - 150 cm |
| Colour | White, black, natural |
| Use | Collars, cuffs, waistbands, bags |
Technical parameters
| Parameter | Detail |
|---|---|
| Match | Weight should match the shell fabric |
| Fusible | Bonds with heat and steam |
| Sew-in | For heat-sensitive or loosely woven cloth |
| Direction | Cut on the same grain as the shell |
| Test | Always fuse a scrap first |
| Adhesive | Dot-coated; check the iron setting |
Safety
Fusible interfacing bonds with heat, and the adhesive can transfer to the iron soleplate and ruin it. Always use a pressing cloth, keep the iron moving, and test on a scrap before you fuse a garment piece.
What it is for
A hidden layer that gives a collar its roll, a buttonhole its strength and a waistband its body. Fusible or sew-in.
Compatible fabrics
Compatible stitches
Working notes
- Match the interfacing weight to the shell, not to the garment type.
- Always use a pressing cloth when fusing, or the iron picks up adhesive.
- Cut interfacing on the same grain as the piece it supports.
- Use sew-in interfacing on loosely woven or heat-sensitive fabric.
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