Fabrics & Notions
Wool Fabric
Wool is the fibre tailoring was invented for. Its scales and crimp let it mould under steam and pressure, so a sleeve head or a lapel can be shaped rather than just sewn, and it holds that shape once it cools. It resists creasing, insulates when damp, and takes a seam beautifully. It also felts if you agitate it in heat, which is permanent and total.
| Specification | Value |
|---|---|
| Fibre | Sheep wool, sometimes blended |
| Weave | Twill, melton, worsted, flannel |
| Weight | 200 - 500 g/m2 |
| Width | 150 cm |
| Shrinkage | Felts with heat and agitation |
| Fraying | Low to moderate |
Technical parameters
| Parameter | Detail |
|---|---|
| Needle | Universal 80/12 - 90/14 |
| Stitch | 2.5 mm straight, longer for bulk |
| Thread | Silk or cotton-wrapped polyester |
| Pressing | Steam and a clapper; use a cloth |
| Shaping | Steam, press, let cool flat |
| Seams | Pressed open over a ham |
Safety
Wool is safe to handle. Use a pressing cloth and a moderate temperature; a bare hot iron will scorch it and leave a permanent shine. Never wash wool in hot water or agitate it, or it will felt irreversibly.
What it is for
A protein fibre that tailors like nothing else: it moulds to shape with steam and holds it. Also it shrinks if you treat it badly.
Compatible fabrics
Compatible stitches
Working notes
- Steam and press to shape, then let the piece cool flat before moving it.
- Always press wool through a cloth, or it will shine.
- Use a ham for curved seams and a clapper for points.
- Hand-wash or dry-clean; never machine wash in heat.
Related tools
Cotton Fabric
The beginner's fabric: stable, easy to cut, forgiving to sew and simple to press.
Linen Fabric
A flax fibre with a distinctive slub, superb drape and breathability, and a tendency to crease the moment you move.
Interfacing
A hidden layer that gives a collar its roll, a buttonhole its strength and a waistband its body. Fusible or sew-in.