Fabrics & Notions
Linen Fabric
Linen is woven from the flax plant and is one of the oldest textiles there is. It is stronger wet than dry, it breathes better than almost any other fibre, and it has a natural irregularity, the slub, that no synthetic imitation quite reproduces. It also creases sharply and permanently with wear, which is either the point or the problem, depending on what you are making.
| Specification | Value |
|---|---|
| Fibre | 100 per cent flax |
| Weave | Plain, often with a slub |
| Weight | 120 - 300 g/m2 |
| Width | 130 - 150 cm |
| Shrinkage | 5 - 8 per cent, pre-wash |
| Fraying | High; seams must be finished |
Technical parameters
| Parameter | Detail |
|---|---|
| Needle | Universal or microtex 80/12 |
| Stitch | 2.5 - 3 mm straight |
| Thread | Cotton-wrapped polyester |
| Pressing | High heat with steam, while damp |
| Grain | Slub runs along the weft |
| Finish | French or flat-felled seams |
Safety
Linen is safe to work with. It is flammable, so keep it clear of a hot iron left unattended, and press it damp rather than scorched dry.
What it is for
A flax fibre with a distinctive slub, superb drape and breathability, and a tendency to crease the moment you move.
Compatible fabrics
Compatible stitches
Working notes
- Pre-wash twice; linen keeps shrinking for the first wash or two.
- Use French or flat-felled seams, because linen frays badly.
- Press while the cloth is still damp for a crisp finish.
- Let it hang overnight before hemming; linen drops with wear.
Related tools
Cotton Fabric
The beginner's fabric: stable, easy to cut, forgiving to sew and simple to press.
Wool Fabric
A protein fibre that tailors like nothing else: it moulds to shape with steam and holds it. Also it shrinks if you treat it badly.
Interfacing
A hidden layer that gives a collar its roll, a buttonhole its strength and a waistband its body. Fusible or sew-in.