Tailoring & Fitting
Tracing Wheel
A tracing wheel is a handle with a serrated wheel that you run along a pattern line. It transfers the line by pressure, either onto dressmaker's carbon underneath or by leaving a perforated line in the fabric itself. It is faster and more accurate than chalk for a long seam, and it marks both layers at once, which is exactly what you want when you need the front and back to match.
| Specification | Value |
|---|---|
| Type | Serrated or smooth (needle-point) |
| Handle | Wood, plastic or metal |
| Wheel | Replaceable on better tools |
| Use | Transferring markings, darts, seams |
| Companion | Dressmaker's carbon paper |
| Care | Keep dry; the spikes rust |
Technical parameters
| Parameter | Detail |
|---|---|
| Pressure | Firm enough to mark, not to cut |
| Carbon | Colour-matched to the fabric |
| Both layers | Marks front and back at once |
| Curves | Follows a curve better than chalk |
| Removal | Carbon markings must be covered |
| Testing | Test carbon on a scrap first |
Safety
The wheel is a ring of fine spikes and will scratch a finger or a table. Keep your guide hand behind the wheel, use a cutting mat or a board underneath, and keep it dry so the points do not rust.
What it is for
A spiked wheel that transfers pattern markings through to the fabric below by pressing, not by drawing.
Compatible fabrics
Compatible stitches
Working notes
- Always test the carbon on a scrap, and choose a colour that will not show.
- Mark on the wrong side; carbon markings must stay hidden.
- Use a smooth wheel on delicate fabric, a serrated one on stable cloth.
- Roll in one direction and keep the wheel against the pattern edge.
Related tools
Dress Form
An adjustable torso for fitting and pinning without a body inside it. The difference between guessing at a fit and seeing it.
Measuring Tape
A flexible dual-scale tape. The tool that starts every project and checks every fit.
French Curve
A flat drafting template with the curves a body actually has, for drawing armholes, necklines and hips.