Pressing & Finishing
Tailor's Ham
A flat ironing board presses a flat seam well and a curved one badly. A tailor's ham is a firm cushion with two curves, one long and gentle for sleeve seams and one short and tight for darts, and you press over it so the seam follows the shape it will take on the body. Press a dart flat and you flatten it; press it over a ham and it keeps its curve.
| Specification | Value |
|---|---|
| Shape | Two-sided, long and tight curve |
| Filling | Sawdust, wool or foam |
| Cover | Cotton or wool, tightly woven |
| Size | 25 - 35 cm long |
| Use | Darts, sleeve heads, hips, curves |
| Companion | Seam roll for narrower curves |
Technical parameters
| Parameter | Detail |
|---|---|
| Firmness | Firm enough to resist the iron |
| Filling | Sawdust holds shape best |
| Surface | Smooth, no seams on the pressing face |
| Pairing | A seam roll covers the other curve |
| Care | Spot clean; do not soak |
| Storage | Hanging or on the board |
Safety
The ham itself is not sharp, but it is used under a hot iron. Keep it dry, keep it away from the soleplate when the iron is standing, and never use a ham with a synthetic filling that could melt if the iron is left on it.
What it is for
A firmly stuffed curved cushion for pressing seams that are not flat, like darts, sleeve heads and hips.
Compatible fabrics
Compatible stitches
Working notes
- Press darts and curved seams over the ham, not flat on the board.
- Use the tight end for darts and the long end for sleeve seams.
- Press, do not iron: set the iron down and hold it.
- A seam roll and a ham together cover almost every curve.
Related tools
Steam Iron
The single most important tool in the room after the machine. Heat, moisture and pressure set the shape of a garment.
Clapper
A block of hardwood you press down on a steamed seam to trap the heat and flatten it. The most underrated tool on the bench.
Pressing Cloth
A thin cotton or silk cloth laid between the iron and the garment to protect the fibre from scorching and shine.