Bespoke & ThreadTailoring Studio

Sewing Machines & Needles

Bobbin

The bobbin carries the lower thread and sits inside the hook, where the upper thread wraps around it to form the lockstitch. It is the least glamorous part of the machine and the one most often responsible for a fault that looks like a tension problem. If it does not turn freely, or it unwinds the wrong way, no dial setting will produce a clean stitch.

Sew
Bobbin technical line drawing
Specification
SpecificationValue
Class15 (front-load) or top-drop
MaterialPlastic or metal, matched to the case
WindingEven, from the bobbin winder
Capacity25 - 40 m of 40-weight thread
Fill level80 - 90 per cent, never overflowing
ExtrasKeep one bobbin per thread colour

Technical parameters

Technical parameters
ParameterDetail
RotationClockwise in the case on most machines
Thread pathThrough the case slot and under the spring
Tension screwOn the case for front-load machines
Wind speedIndependent of the needle
WearChips on the rim snag thread
StorageAway from dust and lint

Safety

The bobbin case and hook area have sharp edges and a needle that can still be loaded. Unplug the machine before removing the bobbin case, and never poke at the hook with the machine running.

What it is for

The lower thread supply. The wrong bobbin class, or one wound unevenly, breaks the stitch before any setting will fix it.

Compatible fabrics

Cotton Linen Wool Silk Denim Jersey

Compatible stitches

Straight Zigzag

Working notes

  • Wind the bobbin at an even speed; a lumpy bobbin makes a lumpy stitch.
  • Check the bobbin turns the right way in the case before you re-thread.
  • Never mix plastic and metal bobbins in the same machine.
  • Keep a wound bobbin in every thread colour you use often.