Cutting & Measuring
Tailor's Chalk
Marking is where a pattern transfers to the cloth, and the tool you mark with matters. Tailor's chalk is compressed clay or wax, and it sits on the surface of the fibre rather than soaking into it, so it brushes or washes away without a residue. Chalk wheels and tailor's soap do the same job; markers that use ink do not.
| Specification | Value |
|---|---|
| Type | Clay (soft) or wax (hard) |
| Shape | Triangular blocks or a wheel |
| Colours | White, blue, yellow, red |
| Use | Marking darts, notches, hems |
| Removal | Brush or wash away |
| Avoid | Ink markers on fine fabric |
Technical parameters
| Parameter | Detail |
|---|---|
| Edge | Sharpen the block to a thin edge |
| Pressure | Light; chalk marks, it does not draw |
| Colour | Contrast the fabric, not the mood |
| Testing | Always test on a scrap first |
| Residue | Clay brushes off, wax needs care |
| Storage | In a box, not loose in the bag |
Safety
Chalk is non-toxic but should not be eaten and should be kept away from the eyes. The marking wheel and awl that often accompany it are sharp; cap or store them when not in use.
What it is for
Clay or wax chalk for marking cloth. It lifts off the surface instead of staining the fibre.
Compatible fabrics
Compatible stitches
Working notes
- Test the chalk on a scrap and press it, not just draw, to check for residue.
- Sharpen the block to a thin edge so the line stays fine.
- Mark on the wrong side, where the marks will be hidden.
- Tailor's soap is better than chalk on wool, where chalk can be hard to shift.
Related tools
Fabric Shears
Bent-handle shears that keep the fabric flat on the table while the blade cuts. The tool a tailor buys once and keeps for thirty years.
Rotary Cutter
A rolling circular blade that cuts multiple layers at once and needs a mat underneath. Fast, accurate, and unforgiving of fingers.
Cutting Mat
A self-healing mat that protects the table and the blade, printed with a grid for squaring up.