Pressing & Finishing
Seam Roll
A seam roll is a long, narrow cylinder of tightly stuffed fabric. You slip it under a seam so the seam line sits over the curve and the seam allowances hang clear on either side. Press the seam flat on a board instead and the allowances print through to the right side as a ridge. The roll is the reason a pressed sleeve seam has no ghost line.
| Specification | Value |
|---|---|
| Shape | Cylindrical, tapered ends |
| Filling | Sawdust or tightly rolled wool |
| Cover | Wool or cotton, hard wearing |
| Length | 30 - 45 cm |
| Diameter | 6 - 9 cm |
| Use | Sleeve seams, narrow seams, trouser legs |
Technical parameters
| Parameter | Detail |
|---|---|
| Curve | Seam sits over the top of the roll |
| Allowances | Hang clear, so no imprint |
| Pairing | Complements the ham |
| Firmness | Firm, so the seam does not sink |
| Care | Spot clean only |
| Storage | Hanging or on the board |
Safety
The roll is used under a hot iron. Keep it dry and let it cool before you store it, and never leave the iron resting on it.
What it is for
A narrow cylindrical cushion for pressing a seam open without imprinting its allowances on the right side.
Compatible fabrics
Compatible stitches
Working notes
- Press sleeve seams over the roll so the allowances never print through.
- Use the tapered end for short seams near a curve.
- Press the seam first flat, then over the roll to finish it.
- A tightly stuffed roll works better than a soft one.
Related tools
Steam Iron
The single most important tool in the room after the machine. Heat, moisture and pressure set the shape of a garment.
Tailor's Ham
A firmly stuffed curved cushion for pressing seams that are not flat, like darts, sleeve heads and hips.
Clapper
A block of hardwood you press down on a steamed seam to trap the heat and flatten it. The most underrated tool on the bench.