Four fibres cover most of what a home sewist will use: cotton, linen, wool and silk. Each one behaves differently under the needle, under the iron and on the body, and knowing which is which is most of the skill of choosing fabric.
Cotton: the stable default
Cotton is a plant fibre woven into a stable cloth with almost no stretch. It cuts accurately, presses beautifully, and forgives a beginner. Its weaknesses are shrinkage, usually three to five per cent, and a tendency to fray. Both are managed: pre-wash the fabric, and finish the seams.
Linen: breathable and beautiful, and it creases
Linen comes from flax and is stronger wet than dry. It breathes better than almost any other fibre, which is why it is a summer staple, and it has a natural irregularity called slub that no synthetic reproduces. It also creases sharply the moment you sit down, and it frays badly, so French or flat-felled seams are worth the effort.
Wool: the tailor's fibre
Wool is the fibre tailoring was invented for. Its crimp and scales let it mould under steam and hold the shape once cool, which is how a lapel rolls and a sleeve head is shaped rather than just sewn. It resists creasing and insulates when damp. Its danger is felting: heat plus agitation makes the fibres lock together permanently, so wool is dry-cleaned or hand-washed cold, never machine-washed hot.
Silk: fluid, lustrous and unforgiving
Silk is strong for its weight, takes dye deeply, and drapes more fluidly than any other natural fibre. It is also slippery, which makes it shift under the needle, and it water-spots and shines if pressed badly. It rewards sharp fine needles, a fine thread, and a light hand at the iron.
| Fibre | Drape | Frays | Presses | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cotton | Moderate | Moderately | Easily, high heat | Shirts, dresses, first projects |
| Linen | Fluid | Badly | Well, while damp | Summer wear, relaxed garments |
| Wool | Firm to soft | Little | Shapes under steam | Tailored jackets, trousers, coats |
| Silk | Very fluid | Moderately | Carefully, low heat | Blouses, dresses, lining |
The two things every cloth does
Every fabric shrinks and every fabric frays, and the amount of each decides how you handle it. Shrinkage is dealt with before you cut, by washing and drying the cloth the way the finished garment will be washed. Fraying is dealt with after you cut, by finishing the raw edges.
Pre-wash, then re-measure
Wash and dry the fabric, then measure it again before you lay out the pattern. Linen can lose eight per cent, and a garment cut from unwashed linen will shrink after it is sewn and no longer fit.
Reading a fabric before you buy it
Hold it up to the light and look at the weave. Pull it gently on the cross and on the straight; a cloth that stretches easily across is a knit or a loose weave and needs different handling. Rub a cut edge between your fingers to see how much it frays. Scrunch it in your hand and let go to see how it recovers, which is a fair preview of how it will behave on a body.
None of this needs a lab. It needs thirty seconds with the cloth in your hands before you commit to a length of it.
